Last summer, my friend Lila—who runs a small sustainable clothing brand in Portland—nearly lost her biggest order. She’d imported 500 cotton button-downs from a factory in Guangzhou, excited to launch her “Eco Essentials” line. But when the shipment hit the Port of Los Angeles, it got stuck. US Customs flagged it: wrong HS code.
Three weeks later, she finally got the shirts—plus a $5,000 fine for misclassification. “I just assumed all cotton shirts used the same code,” she groaned over coffee. “Turns out, it’s not that simple.”
If you’re importing shirts from China to the US, Lila’s story is a warning. The right HS code (Harmonized System code) isn’t just paperwork—it’s the key to avoiding delays, fines, or unexpected tariffs. Let’s break down the critical HS codes for shirts, why they matter, and how to get them right.
The Story Behind the Mistake: Why Lila’s Shirts Got Stuck
Lila’s shirts were 100% organic cotton, button-front, with a classic collar. She’d used HS Code 6205200000—a code for “cotton shirts” she found in a generic online list. But Customs pointed out a detail she missed: her shirts were woven, not knit. The correct code for woven cotton shirts? 6205200000 actually applies to knit cotton shirts. Her woven styles needed a different code: 6205300000.
The mix-up meant her shipment sat in a warehouse for 21 days, and the fine ate into her profit. “I should’ve checked the weave type,” she said. “It sounds small, but it cost me big time.”
Key HS Codes for Shirts: From China to US (2025 Update)
Shirt HS codes depend on three things: material (cotton, polyester, silk), weave (woven vs. knit), and details like collars or closures. Here are the 4 most common codes, straight from the latest US Customs data.
1. HS Code 6205300000: Woven Cotton Shirts (Non-Knit)
- What it covers: Woven shirts (not knit) made of ≥85% cotton, with collars and front closures (buttons, zippers). Think classic button-downs, dress shirts, or casual woven cotton tops.
- Tariff (2025): 8.5% base tariff + 7.5% additional duty = 16.0% total.
- Lila’s Lesson: If your shirt is woven (think stiff, structured fabric, not stretchy), this is likely your code. Knit cotton shirts (stretchy, like t-shirts) use a different code.
2. HS Code 6205200000: Knit Cotton Shirts
- What it covers: Knit (stretchy) shirts with ≥85% cotton, collared or not. Examples: cotton polo shirts, knit button-ups, or casual cotton tees with collars.
- Tariff (2025): 10.0% base tariff + 5.0% additional duty = 15.0% total.
- Pro Tip: Knit vs. woven is a big distinction. Knit fabric has loops (like a sweater); woven has crisscrossed threads (like denim).
3. HS Code 6205909090: Polyester-Blend Shirts
- What it covers: Shirts with <85% cotton, often blended with polyester (e.g., 60% cotton/40% polyester). Works for both woven and knit styles.
- Tariff (2025): 12.0% base tariff + 10.0% additional duty = 22.0% total.
- Heads Up: If polyester is the main material (≥50%), check sub-codes—some high-polyester blends face higher tariffs.
4. HS Code 6205902000: Silk Shirts
- What it covers: Shirts made of ≥85% silk, woven or knit. Includes luxury silk button-downs or silk-blend shirts (if silk is the dominant material).
- Tariff (2025): 7.0% base tariff + 3.0% additional duty = 10.0% total.
- Note: Silk shirts often need extra documentation (like origin certificates) to qualify for this lower tariff.
3 Rules to Avoid Lila’s Mistake
- Check the Weave First: Knit vs. woven is the first question. Woven = structured, non-stretchy; knit = stretchy, looped fabric.
- Material % Matters: If a shirt is 80% cotton and 20% polyester, it’s not “cotton” under HS rules—it falls into the blend code (6205909090).
- Collars & Closures Count: Collarless shirts or those without front closures (like pullovers) might use different codes. Always note details like buttons or zippers.
Lila’s story has a happy ending: She now double-checks her shirts’ weave and material before shipping, and her last order cleared Customs in 48 hours. “HS codes feel like a hassle until you get them wrong,” she says. “Now, they’re my first step, not an afterthought.”
If you’re unsure which code fits your shirts, cross-reference the material tag, weave type, and US Customs’ official database. Your bottom line (and sanity) will thank you.